Thanksgiving: A "Moveable" Feast

The other day I opened the newspaper and noticed a full page ad from the Philippines' leading department store chain announcing  a Thanksgiving Day sale. Apparently this American holiday day, like Halloween, is another occasion that has recently made its way into the calendar of (unofficial) fiestas in the Philippines, at least in Metro-Manila.  Another indication of this trend is that many restaurants now feature turkey on their menus on Thanksgiving. (It may sound strange to associate turkey with the Philippines, but these birds are also bred here and raised for local consumption)   Tellingly, just  to show how Thanksgiving is creeping  into the culture as a point of reference, a few days ago Filipino of mine made reference to our getting together together after this holiday.                                                            

I enjoy the attention that Thanksgiving is getting locally as it's about the only national holiday in the U.S. to which I personally attach any sentiment. Like many Americans, I associate this day with such events as (now bygone)  family gatherings and memories of  the overall festive feeling, the carefree four-day school breaks of my childhood, often accompanied by snow and an anticipation of the approaching winter season and the latter's festivals.

In my later years before retiring and relocating to the Philippines, when we weren't celebrating Thanksgiving with relatives, my wife Lydia and I would observe this special day off from work by going to a fine dining restaurant and enjoying  a traditional fare with all the trimmings rather than going to the trouble of preparing such a meal just for the two of us. On that holiday it just didn't feel right for us to dine by ourselves at home.

In all honestly, contrary to the original purpose of  Thanksgiving, I can't honestly say that I consider that day to be set aside as an occasion to reflect on whatever good fortune that  that I've found in life (or that has found me).  That is something that I do almost every day anyway.

Instead,  even though Lydia and I are no longer working, we will continue carrying out our Thanksgiving customs for the foreseeable future.  It's too much a part of our tradition to stop now.

HAPPY  THANKSGIVING,  EVERYBODY.  

Spell Check

Whether one is a native or foreigner in the Philippines there is no escaping the fact that the country is besieged by a high crime rate and that almost no one is totally safe from becoming a victim. Yet not all such criminal acts, especially robbery and other crimes of property necessarily involve physical violence. Instead, some perpetrators  prey on their targets via deceit and fraud.  Some gangs have become notorious via their "signature" modus operandi, and  their specialties may or may not include physical force.

While lone snatchers are common,  criminals often act in teams. One will distract the victim while the other picks his/her pocket or purse.  A more sophisticated operation involves phoning the residence of wealthy targets who the perps know are not at home but (as is common here) have domestic help on the premises. When a maid answers the phone,  the con-artist impersonates the homeowner (or someone claiming to be calling for him), and claims to have been in accident and for the domestic to gather and bring the target's money and even jewelry to a certain site such as a hospital.  The helper will likely be rattled by the call, and out of obedience to her employer, she acts as instructed.  When she arrives at the location, she is met by the criminals who claim to be acting in behalf of the accident victim and who convince the maid to turn over the valuables to them.  Of course they then promptly disappear.

But the most bizarre method that I've heard of by thieves here is the alleged utilization of hypnotism wherein the perps accost their victims and induce them into handing over their valuables including all the money in their bank account.  It sounds like an urban legend; yet even a few of my in-laws claim to have been victimized by the ruse.  And because these tales abound, the media takes such reported incidents seriously. Yet as I see it, just because a phenomenon is reportedly widespread but not scientifically verified, that makes it no more plausible than abduction by space aliens or an image of the Virgin Mary appearing in a mud splatter on a wall.

 In reality theft by hypnotism  may be just a case of the thieves using well honed powers of persuasion on their targets who then feel foolish when they realize that they've been had. So they block  the memory of their own consenting role and convince themselves that they were totally blameless in the event.

What is the profile of the criminal who commits this kind of crime?  According to my wife Lydia who is a professional psychologist, extreme narcissists and other sociopaths are especially adept in exploiting credulous people  through intense eye-contact, facial expressions, flattery, and appeals for sympathy   Further, since Philippine culture is permeated by belief in the supernatural including magic spells, incantations, spirits, shape-shifters, etc. many  people here (the majority?) even those with a formal education are gullible and hence easy prey for being overpowered by con-artists who not only use the foregoing forms of manipulation but  hocus-pocus and high-pressure tactics as well.    Speaking of flattery, uninitiated foreigners are also fair game for local crooks who turn on the charm and manage to weasel their way into the person's good graces.  So to that extent Filipinos aren't the only ones vulnerable to this form of "hypnotism".

The best way to prevent getting suckered in this manner is  to being careful about talking to strangers, which is not an easy caveat to follow in this gregarious society, and most people don't want to be rude to friendly overtures especially if one is in need of assistance. But in public places be especially alert to people who strike up conversations and get personal too quickly especially with compliments or invitations.

In the final analysis, it's up to everyone to stay on their toes and keep his/ her guard up against these slick operators. We can't really count on the undependable and thinly stretched law enforcement system here to do much about them.  Unlike being physically attacked or threatened, if we allow our vanity to cloud our judgment and we get duped as a result, then this is an instance where as victims we have only ourselves to blame.

On Occasion

It doesn't take much to get Filipinos into a festive mindset especially at this time of the year. Christmas of course is a "major, major" celebration here, second only to Good Friday, and holiday ornaments and merchandise have been out on  the shelves for a couple weeks now. BTW I'm going to try be less of a curmudgeon about Christmas.   After all, I rather enjoy the special dishes that are cooked during the season along with the displays of artistic decorations, some of which are really beautiful.  Did I mention the special dishes?

Year by year it seems that Halloween, complete with pumpkin style decorations and trick-or-treat for the kids,  is becoming more popular in the Philippines possibly because of its "spirit world" theme and proximity to All Saints Day.  The latter is observed on Nov. 1 and is is a legacy of the country's Spanish and Chinese heritages. On this holiday, families flock to cemeteries in remembrance of their  deceased family members. But this is not a solemn occasion and is marked by such recreational events at the grave sites as picnicking and card playing.   For a more detailed description of this holiday and of All Souls Day which falls on Nov. 2 , please click here .

Then there was a really bizarre celebration here in Eastwood City the other day.   The local McDonald's which  was closed a few months ago for renovations reopened Saturday morning at  12a.m.  That's  right—midnight.   This was accompanied by a fireworks display and later in the day a marching band.  I suppose the hour was chosen in honor of the mainstay of Mc Do's business in this locale: the 18,000 call center agents who work in Eastwood, many of them on the graveyard shift.  But my wife and I had no inkling that the reopening  would be scheduled at that time.  So when we were awakened by the thundering pyrotechnics    (just across the street), we didn't know what the hell was going on.

Another festival that has crept into culture recently at this time of the year at least at malls and restaurants is Oktoberfest. Beer of course is  popular both in the Philippines and Germany, so naturally  a major player in popularizing this event here is San Miguel Beer which sponsored several gatherings last month for this occasion throughout Metro-Manila.  Eastwood City is also holding week-end Oktoberfest beer and sausage specials this month.  

My wife Lydia and I are stay-at-home types.  Still it's nice to know that if we want to join in any of the night life amidst all these fiestas, there are many venues from which to select just a short walk from our door.  But when it comes to fast food,  I think that I'll skip McDonald's. All the redecorating and fireworks in the world won't change the fact that the food is still the same fare as before.  In other words  those new coats of paint are, as the saying goes here,  just putting a new collar on an old dog.

Never on Wednesday and Other Disaster Preparedness Plans

Sept. 26 marked the one year anniversary of Ondoy, the flood that wreaked havoc throughout Metro-Manila (see my Sept 28, 2009 post "Storm Signals").  There is much that still needs to be done to prevent a recurrence of the damage that would recur if a similar storm to were to strike again. Yet it's heartening to see that steps have already been taken in that direction including a campaign to reduce estuary-clogging  litter.

One of the most problematic forms of such refuse is the ubiquitous non-biodegradable plastic bag.  When improperly discarded it becomes an environmental menace, especially in blocking water drainage.   In order to encourage responsible use of these containers, several mall and supermarket chains  throughout the Philippines have teamed up with the DENR (Department of Environmental and Natural Resources).  They have declared Wednesdays as "Reusable Bag Day" and will charge shoppers a fee for these bags on those days beginning this week.  The purpose is to encourage consumers to be less wasteful by furnishing and reusing their own bags  while shopping. (Just think, what did we do both here and in the U.S. before plastic bags were invented?  Somehow we survived to tell the tale.)

Another favorable sign in the ongoing struggle to clean up Metro-Manila and at the same time reduce the risk of flooding  is the planned crackdown by the MMDA (Metropolitan Manila Development Authority) via renewed implementation of the anti-littering law, which has been on the books since 1996s but has not been enforced since 2003.  I really hope that something good comes of this ordinance,  However, given the cultural barriers against success, such as  indifference by Filipinos toward public sanitation, the practice of bribery by businesses and individuals towards officials and enforcers, and the national trait of ningas cogon  (initial enthusiasm followed by a quick wane of interest), I'm skeptical that this particular project will make much headway over the long haul.  But it's worth a shot.

On a larger scale, the Philippine government has taken such measures as upgrading the national meteorological  service PAGASA (Philippine Atmosphere Geophysical and Astronomical Services Administration.  BTW Pag-asa is also the Tagalog term for "hope") to enable that department to issue hourly updates about storm and water level conditions. Previously that information was available only every 6 hours. In addition there has been  disaster preparedness training in various communities and supposedly overall better preparedness if the worst happens.

These are just a few steps in the right direction. Whether they will make a meaningful  impact can't be known of course until a disaster actually strikes. However, much of the damage to Metro-Manila from typhoon Basyang in July for example was the result of an unexpected swerve that the storm took, which the weather service using the old six-hour report schedule was unprepared to announce.  With their newly improved meteorological equipment, is there certainty that the authorities will be warned in a more timely manner next time in order to take proper precautions? And will they react accordingly?  We can't say for sure, but at least there's room for pag-asa.

The Official Hostage Taking Story: It Just Keeps Getting Weirder

I have refrained from commenting about Aug. 23 hostage tragedy because so much has been said about it already that I wasn't sure what more I could add.  But as recent developments have come to light, I've decided to put in my two cents.

According to the Sept. 8 edition of the "Philippine Daily Inquirer", a respected local newspaper, witnesses said that the hostage taker, Rolando Mendoza,  arrived by car at 9:30 at the point where, according to the bus driver and a passenger, he commandeered the bus 15 minutes later. However —and here's the bizarre part— the SWAT team was alerted at 9:07 a.m and was deployed at 9:15.  This was of course long before the perpetrator seized the bus or even showed up at spot where he hijacked the vehicle. In other words, as the PDI said, the police were "tipped off" ahead of the event.

The attorney representing the SWAT team claims that this sequence time line  was erroneously reported as the result of an honest mistake and will be corrected, but the police stand by the original time that they were first notified of the event.  If that's the case,  it means at least one other person was in on the crime and for whatever reason dropped the dime on Mendoza.  Yet this wrinkle only surfaced today in the course of a hearing held by the committee investigating the takeover.

Now here's something else that's not clear to me, and I've not yet seen this point mentioned elsewhere:  Had Mendoza already targeted the particular tour bus that he hijacked?  If so, how did he know that the bus was going to be at the place, Fort Santiago, where he seized it?  Inasmuch as this vehicle was a tour bus and not a public utility transport, it didn't follow a schedule. Alternatively, perhaps it's a popular spot for tour buses and Mendoza was aware of that and instead happened to pick this one at random?

Also, when the PDI said Mendoza alighted from his car at the hijack location, it didn't say from which side, the passenger or driver's seat.  If the former, then does this mean that someone drove him to there?  If so, whoever that person was had to know what Mendoza was up to as he was already decked out in fatigues and carrying a rifle.  And if there was another person in the car, a likely suspect is his brother who later made a scene and was taken away by police at the location where the bus finally wound up at the Quirino Grandstand in Rizal Park.  When Mendoza saw his brother being dragged away, this supposedly set him off into the shooting frenzy that left eight passengers dead plus Mendoza.himself who was shot supposedly by police when they stormed the bus.

What apparently drove Mendoza to carry out the hijacking was hopelessness over his allegedly wrongful employment termination, attendant loss of retirement benefits, and subsequent denial of due process regarding his appeal of the dismissal. Perhaps out of desperation he figured that taking hostages was the only way that he could get the authorities to listen to him.  I certainly can't condone Mendoza's actions.   Yet I do understand how a perceived injustice that has cost a person his livelihood and reputation can cause him to become unhinged and lash out irrationally.

The possibility that Mendoza originally had a companion with him, the time line discrepancy , the unprofessional manner in which the police assaulted the bus to free the hostages, and the conditions under which Mendoza lost his job are just a few of the matters that I hope will be covered in the the panel's report which is due for release later this month.  IMO,  the information that's been made available thus far contains too many  anomalies. May truth not wind up as the ninth victim.

Breakfast Blues

Eastwood City where my wife and I reside continues to be a vibrant blend of condominiums, businesses, shopping and entertainment.  As a long awaited additional tourist attracton to this mixed use community, a  high-rise hotel, the Eastwood Richmonde,  is scheduled to start  its guest operations in September.  The hotel restaurant, The Eastwood Cafe, is already open and starts serving at  6:00 a.m daily.

We were looking forward to this option as there were previously no upscale restaurants in Eastwood that open before lunch.  We are early risers, and we fancied that we might enjoy an excellent hotel breakfast experience similar to what  we enjoyed many years ago when we stayed at what was then the Century Park Sheraton (now the Century Park Hotel) in the Malate District of Metro-Manila.

So last week we decided to treat ourselves and walked over to the Eastwood Cafe shortly after they opened for the day.  We  were the first ones there and figured that being the case, getting decent service would be a slam-dunk.  We placed our order and waited to be served... and waited...and waited. When we finally asked what the holdup was, it turned out that either the kitchen forgot to tell the server that our food was ready, or the server forgot to pick it up.  It doesn't matter who dropped the ball, because when our breakfast finally arrived (minus the coffee that I had asked for!) both meals were cold.  Further,  my order, french toast,  was undercooked. So we sent the whole thing back to be reheated (and in my case, replaced--which it wasn't.)

By the time that everything was finally ready, my wife and I were both out of sorts over the long delay and really couldn't enjoy the food.  And because this was a hotel dining room, of course the bill of fare was higher than it would have been in a comparable stand-alone establishment.   When we complained about our experience to the hostess, she just smiled and said that they would try to do better "next time", without so much as offering the courtesy of, say, comping a portion of the check.  I also completed and turned in the customer survey card that came with the tab, leaving my phone and email address to see if we would get a reply. Not surprisingly, that didn't happen.  Next time? Yeah, right.

From now on, if we want to go out for breakfast,  we may as well go to  the local  Jollibee or McDonald's.   At least at those places we won't have to worry about paying for more than the food or the service is worth.

Oh, BTW, I don't know why there's no longer a Sheraton in Manila, but if the Eastwood Richmonde manages guest lodging the way it does its food service, this hotel may also not have much of a future.

Welcome To The Jungle

Although the Philippines is certainly not lacking for laws to protect employees from abusive working conditions, they are not usually not enforced. According to the announcement "DOLE to inspect, correct firms violating minimum wage, other labor standards",  a government study showed that over half  the businesses inspected by the Philippines Department of Labor and Employment were in violation of national  labor standards.

From my observation the burden of worker exploitation falls most heavily on blue collar and manual laborers (surprise, surprise). These workers often have to put up with job conditions that would befit the pyramid slaves in ancient Egypt.  I have seen such counter-productive and inhumane practices as delivery people carrying loads on their backs instead of being provided with  inexpensive hand trucks.  Tree-trimmers are often forced to climb trees to cut branches instead of being furnished with pruners or even ladders. Instead of being run by electric motors, cables holding scaffolds carrying high rise building window washers are often manually operated by workers on the ground who pull and release the ropes to raise and lower the platform.  Construction workers usually work without hard hats and sturdy shoes (despite being admonished to do so by signs posted at building sites).  Employees  who are exposed to fumes, dust and particulates, use handkerchiefs instead of filtration masks, that is if they use any protection at all.

As is the case with many countries, the excuse that the Philippines is an underdeveloped / third world / developing (take your pick of adjectives) nation falls flat.  While these workers toil in difficult and backward circumstances, their managers often enjoy state of the art offices and conveniences.  Culturally, in many ways the Philippines is still  a feudal society and employers often regard their employees as little more than serfs. The resources are available to improve the lot of the workers, but most employers are too shortsighted to realize that by spending money by  improving working conditions, this will lead to higher production.  There are labor organizations, but with some exceptions such as  PISTON, an aggressive union which represents the jeepney drivers, most of them do a piss-poor job in protecting their members.

But from a larger perspective, mistreatment of workers here is rooted in the dark side of capitalism:  supply and demand of human labor.  Due to overpopulation in the Philippines, especially in Metro-Manila, the job market has a glut of worker, which of course depresses wages for everyone and which leaves would-be employees scrambling for jobs, including positions with substandard working environments. (To be fair, in this regard, the Philippines is not alone.  In any country where this set of conditions prevails, workers almost always get the short end of the stick).

This surplus of workers is aggravated by migrants from the provinces and the countryside who come to Metro-Manila in hopes of  finding better livelihood opportunities than those back home.  Even if they don't find formal employment, most of them stay on, competing with a population already hustling for a living however they can get one.  Given the Philippine culture of family narcissism, many people will do anything, legal or otherwise to put food on the table.  Naturally, desperation and ruthlessness contribute to the high crime rate here.  

As a result of low pay a large number of parents can't properly support their families.  And since laws against child labor and abuse are laxly enforced, many kids drop out of school and go to work, run away, or are abandoned by their families to fend for themselves.  Those who survive street life  grow up educationally and socially handicapped and in turn produce children whom they can't afford to properly take care of.  And so the cycle continues generation after generation in ever increasing numbers. 

Several steps need to be taken to successfully combat worker exploitation.  Here are a few:  Population control including widespread and cheap availability of contraceptives; strict implementation of wage and labor laws. improved public education quality, facilities, and opportunities; free and /or low cost health care for all; decentralization of public and private workplaces in order to improve job availability outside of Metro-Manila to locations throughout the country, along with infrastructure repair and expansion (which itself will provide jobs) to facilitate a reverse migration.

At any rate,  the present state of affairs cannot long endure.  If the workers' plight and other serious problems plaguing the Philippines, as discussed in "Stopping the Ticking Time Bomb", continue to be ignored, this country may soon reach a breaking point from which it can never recover.  And if that happens, it won't be just the lower working class that will find itself in a Darwinian struggle for survival.

Collateral Damage

Typhoon Basyang (aka Conson) ripped through the Philippines and hammered Metro-Manila last week. The storm left the city without electricity for an extended period and in some areas of Luzon for several days.  As a result, perishable foods that lost electric powered refrigeration and/ or freezing within this period became unsafe for consumption.

Food spoilage  is a problem that accompanies any long term brownout. Personally, for the most part my wife and I can get by when the lights go out. However, our main concern under such circumstances is possibly contracting a food-borne illness because our refrigerator isn't running.   In many instances of course it's easy to detect that a particular food product has gone bad just by smell, taste, sight, or touch. With other items it's not that easy.  They may appear to be o.k. but may be harboring dangerous bacteria.  (So I wonder just how many people are felled as a result of ingesting spoiled food in the aftermath of natural disasters.)

Here in Eastwood City, it took almost 24 hours for electricity to be restored. Fortunately, our refrigerator was up to the job even without power such that our frozen foods stayed hard and the refrigerated foods remained reasonably cold.

However, during the power outage I noticed that for some nearby fast-food restaurants without alternate sources of power, it was business as usual. Their interiors weren't lit or air conditioned, and the cash registers weren't working, ( sales were calculated manually); so I assume  their food preparation and refrigeration units also weren't functioning  (Perhaps the food was left over from the day before).  In fact, I observed that one of these businesses, a convenience store, had food out at room temperature (actually in the 80's indoors due to warm weather) all day on the display rack of a non-functioning oven warmer.  That is just the right condition for bacteria to multiply and thrive in.

But all this carelessness isn't surprising. Unsafe food handling practices are common in the Philippines.  There are laws on the books against such negligence, but more often than not, due to corruption and inefficiency, they are unenforced.

However, it's not rocket science to understand that meals served by restaurants under such circumstances can lead to food poisoning. Yet during the blackout customers were still patronizing these establishments. These people appeared to be middle class and therefore presumably educated enough to know that they were flirting with danger.  But such apathy is part of the Philippine culture of  bahala na  which is roughly translated as fatalism.

For those who want to play it safe, IMO it's probably best to stay away from such eateries for at least a few days after a long-term power outrage while they foist off their questionable inventory on an  indifferent public.  On the other hand dining out in the midst of a power outage is probably safer in malls that have backup generators powering their businesses including restaurants along with the latter's' food storage equipment.

As careful as I try to be in these matters, I have not always been able to dodge the bullet.  I have contracted amoebic dysentery twice from contaminated  food or beverages.  However,  it could only occur more frequently if I were to let my guard down.  Risk in dining out or even in food preparation at home can't be totally avoided even under the best of conditions.  But by exercising common sense under obviously hazardous conditions,  it can at least be minimized.

America, The Philippines, and the Fourth of July

July 4 marks not only American Independence Day but also Philippine-American Friendship Day.  By way of a little history, this date was also originally celebrated as Independence Day in the Philippines to commemorate the official end of American colonization in 1946. The holiday was moved to June 12 in 1964.  For the story behind reason for the change, click here.

But back to the present, in honor of this joint holiday the American Association of the Philippines, an organization with which I only recently became familiar,  presented a festival in Taguig City yesterday. Inasmuch as I usually don't attend such events, I decided to spend a few hours there anyway but didn't stay for the finale.

It was a low-key, family oriented celebration that while it had a distinctly American flavor and was held mainly for the benefit of Americans residing in the Philippines, the festival  nevertheless blended U.S.and Philippine cultures. There was a good turnout, and everyone seemed to be at ease with this mix.

The American ambassador, Harry K. Thomas made an appearance and gave a speech that traced the historical ties between the U.S. and the Philippines.  He mingled with the crowd and pressed the flesh; so  I was able to meet  and exchanged pleasantries with him. Ambassador Thomas seems sincerely interested in his assignment, and I wish him success. However, his immediate predecessor, Kristie Kenney, who was immensely popular with the Philippine people is going to be a tough act to follow.

Two glitches in the festival were a shortage of  tables and chairs to accommodate everyone in attendance, and the "infomercials" presented by the sponsors were too long which delayed the rest of the events agenda.

Still I'm glad that I went and that the AAP holds such festivities which enable us expatriates to collectively enjoy the holiday traditions that in relocating abroad, we might not otherwise have the opportunity to celebrate.

HAPPY FOURTH OF JULY, EVERYBODY.

Taxi Hassles and How to Avoid Them

As the result of some of my recent experiences with taxis in Metro-Manila I have decided take this opportunity to review and expand on some advice that I offered in my original post about what everyone who uses this form of transportation here should know.

First, when you flag down a taxi, tell the driver where you're going before boarding. Many drivers are prima donnas and  will refuse to take you if they think the destination is too far or inconvenient for them.

As soon as you're in the cab make sure that the driver activates the meter immediately.  If he doesn't, chances are he's going to ask for an outrageous flat rate instead.   Or did the driver hesitate before accepting you as a passenger? Chances are he was planning to add a surcharge to the fare.   Either of these scenarios can be infuriating.  But don't let your anger cloud your thinking.  If, say, it's raining and / or taxis are far and few between where you're boarding, it may be best to swallow your pride and roll with with paying an additional P50 tacked onto the fare or to negotiate a flat rate after all.  Otherwise, just say no and tell the driver to pull over and let you out, or threaten to report him to the LFTRB (a government transportation regulation agency). Sometimes either of these demands itself will cause him  to back down and play by the rules.  This also applies to reckless drivers.  Again, deciding when and when not to do "rebel"  is strictly a judgment call.  You can also text complaints about errant drivers to 9988. Click here for details about this service.

Also for your personal safety when you board, text the taxi's license number to a personal contact especially if you're traveling at night or are in an unfamiliar locale. 

If possible, avoid taxis that are in poor condition inside or out.  There seems to be a positive correlation between dilapidated vehicles and greedy drivers. 

Know in advance exactly how far your destination is and how to get there.  Then when you tell the driver what route to take, you will show that you can't be fooled and are less likely to get an unexpected tour of the city. You can buy street maps and directories at places such as National Book Store.  I recommend the "Accu map Metro Manila CitiAtlas" or their "Metro Manila Route Map". Whichever guide  that you're most comfortable using, I suggest that you go over it in your spare time to acquaint yourself with the various streets and byways of the area.

Finally, I don't want to give the impression that all taxi drivers here are dishonest.  That's certainly not the case.  For all that I think I know about getting  around or going from point A to point B in Metro-Manila , I've had drivers who have shown me  better and cheaper routes. It's just that the more you know about being a taxi passenger, the less likely you are to be taken for a ride.