Wednesday, October 28, 2009

Are You Ready to Order?

My wife Lydia and I celebrated 39th wedding anniversary this past Saturday by treating ourselves to dinner at a fine dining establishment. Now as I mentioned in my original post ("An Expat's Perspective on Life in The Philippines" Part 2, Aug. 7, 2008) eating out can be a dicey proposition due to many restaurant owners' indifference to and lax enforcement of health regulations. Then there's also the 22% surcharge to the check (12% VAT and 10% service charge) to contend with.

Still, it's good to get out once in while and let someone else do the cooking, even if it's uncertain what's going on in the kitchen. Just patronize well known restaurants that appear clean and that value repeat business. Based on these criteria, here are a few establishments in the Metro-Manila area where we've have had positive experiences.

For all you meat lovers, there's Gulliver's Restaurant located in the Great Eastern Hotel, on Quezon Ave. in Quezon City : This establishment is part of a chain based in California, and there is another branch in Makati City. Gulliver's specialty is prime rib, a dinner for which is a prix fixe and includes several side dishes. For two people the tab for this selection including drinks, VAT and service charge is about Php2,200. For a table with a view, reservations are recommended; phone 371-8282 (Quezon City) and 898-2888 (Makati City).

A very popular fast food restaurant, also a chain operation is Jollibee, which is based in the Philippines with many branches throughout the country and a few in the U.S. as well. Jollibee has a wide selection of dishes, including the hamburgers, fries, chicken, as well as native dishes of course. I especially like their breakfasts, such as crispy bangus (fish), which comes with rice, egg, and a beverage of your choice (Php74). Another good morning order is pancakes with beverage included (Php 42).

No review of restaurants in the Philippines would be complete without mentioning at least one Chinese restaurant. One of my favorites is China Bistro located on C-5 across from Eastwood Ave in Quezon City. This place has an unusual setting: a section of an office building lobby. But don't let this anomaly interfere with your enjoyment of their large menu of tasty and authentic selections such as sweet and sour pork, beef with asparagus, and frog legs. One delicious beverage that that I had there and which I haven't found anywhere else is sugar cane juice. Dinner for two including three ala carte dishes and drinks: about Php 1,500. Reservations not required for a small group, but it's probably best best to do so for a party of 6 or more; phone 6310556

(Note: do not confuse China Bistro with nearby Shanghai Bistro in Eastwood City. The latter is more well known but their food is not nearly as good. Further, Shanghai Bistro is more expensive, and their service is lousy).

Back to our anniversary celebration: We dined at 22 Prime, located in the Discovery Suites Hotel in Pasig City. This restaurant which is located right across the street from the Podium takes its name from its location on the top (22nd) floor of the building, and its culinary emphasis on quality meat dishes. Our prix fixe prime rib dinners included potatoes and vegetables. The side dishes are soup, bread with three different dips, a salad bar, and dessert. A word about salad bars: Normally, that is something in which I have no interest as they are usually IMO very dull. However, the salad bar at 22 Prime is unique. It's really more of a selection of delicacies , including shrimps, grapes, egg plant, and dates, just to name a few. By themselves, the choices that I mentioned sound ordinary, but they're all prepared in a special way and are delicious. By the time our main course arrived, we were both already full and wound up taking half our meal home. The only blot on the experience is that it turns out our take home portion was missing the leftover potatoes, which we had specifically ordered to be included. Prime rib dinner for two including VAT and service charge (drinks excluded) totals about Php 2,200. For a table with a view, reservations recommended; phone 683-8222.

Some people eat to live; other live to eat. As I mentioned in "An Expat's Perspective, the latter choice is very much a part of Philippine culture, and there are restaurants in Metro-Manila to suit almost any taste and budget. I can't overemphasize the need to be prudent about dining out here, and what you see in the dining area aesthetics isn't always what you get in the kitchen. Still, if you're lucky enough to select a restaurant in your food choice and price range and that complies with proper food handling and preparation procedures, dining out in the Philippines here can be a rewarding experience.

Friday, October 9, 2009

Condominium Living: Practival vs. Prestigious

This has not been a great few weeks for Metro-Manila. First there was the the tropical storm on Sept. 26 which flooded the city and surrounding suburbs. Now we are experiencing rolling power outages as the result of equipment problems at Meralco, our electric utility. This situation which began on Oct. 7 will likely continue until tomorrow and possibly beyond.

My wife Lydia and I live in a high rise condominium building, and in the event of a blackout, we residents depend on a backup generator located on the premises that powers the elevators and illuminates the common area including the stairwells plus one emergency light in each unit. When the first power interruptions occurred, they lasted for several hours. In each of these instances, there was a long gap before the generator kicked in. This meant that during this wait time, occupants--especially those on the upper floors--were stranded inside (and from) their units unless they were willing to fumble and grope their way through unlit corridors and darkened enclosed stairwells. A similar generator failure which lasted much longer occurred during a typhoon-related blackout a few years ago. In such situations, the prestige associated with living on the higher levels of a 26 floor high-rise like ours becomes meaningless. In fact such a location can turn into a hazard for those residents.

Before I arrived in the Philippines four years ago, Lydia preceded me here and was the one who selected our condo. She had a choice of a unit on the 25th floor or of another on the seventh floor. She wisely selected the latter knowing in the event of an emergency, especially if elevator service were unavailable, it would be much easier to evacuate from a lower floor.

In such a crisis I also prefer to have a basic cell phone that has a flashlight to a more expensive camera- equipped and / or Internet ready model which does not. What does this have to do with power outages? When the building generator failed, my cell phone performed double duty by illuminating the blacked out common areas thus allowing me to leave (and return to) our condominium at will in order to go about my business, to stay in touch with Lydia (who decided to stay indoors), and to contact other family members to see how they were faring. By way of comparison what additional services can a fancy mobile phone perform in these instances? Its expensive features might as well not even exist. (Speaking of phones, here's a tip: If the main telephone for your residence is a cordless connected to a landline, the phone will not function during a power interruption. Keep a modular corded phone as a backup. This unit will likely still work as long as service is available from your phone company, whether or not you have electric power).

I've met some residents here who are status-conscious and proud to the point of bragging about living on the upper floors. But in my opinion, in a disaster such as a fire or or earthquake a simpler life style that for example entails having to traverse on foot only seven floors instead of twenty-six to leave the building, and using a cheap but practical mobile phone to light the way out trumps dwelling in and maybe being trapped in a higher and more expensive unit any day.

Oh well, in case of a disaster I suppose while those occupants in the top floors are sitting and waiting to be rescued, they can use their state-of-the art cellphones to take pictures of each other and browse the web.

Monday, September 28, 2009

Storm Signals

In the four years that I've been living in the Philippines, I've never been so personally impacted by a typhoon as I was by tropical storm Ketsana (known locally as "Ondoy") which on Sept. 26 blew into Metro-Manila wreaking havoc on the city and surrounding provinces.

On the morning of that day as the rain was building I went out to a gathering that was about 12 km from home, not (consciously) realizing how much worse things would get as the day progressed. That understanding sank in only after I arrived at my destination. When I left there a few hours later, the storm was intensifying and areas were flooding, such that what would have normally been a 40 minute ride home turned into a 6 hour odyssey . During that time I traveled by taxi, rapid transit, and foot before I ran out of transportation options about 3km from home. Public transit jeeps and cabs had stopped traveling to my neighborhood due to flood conditions in that vicinity. So there I was, stranded and soaking wet. At least I was able to let my wife Lydia know what was going on via cell phone before losing the signal. Mobile phone service was not restored until this morning.

I took refuge in a shopping mall, unsure just how or if I would get back home that night.
While at the mall, it was interesting to observe the demeanor of the people there who were blithely shopping and apparently having a good time despite the worsening conditions outside.

Finally, I scored a taxi driver who for an extra P50 was willing to take a chance and try to drive me to my residence, or at least as close to the area as possible. I live just a short distance from the Marikina River which that day had overflowed its banks, and as a result, just a block away from my condo, the streets were impassable. However, we made it all the way home without encountering any problems, which of course was such a relief that I was happy to pay the additional fare.

It wasn't until the next morning that the extent of the damage from the storm and resulting inundation was starting to become evident both in terms of lost lives and property. Through now, the reported toll of casualties is still rising and at this writing, is over 100. And no wonder: According to Pagasa, the official weather agency for the Philippines, the typhoon dumped the equivalent of one month's rain in six hours.

One of the hardest hit communites was Cainta, where many of Lydia's family members live. Most of Lydia's relatives there, as is the case with the other residents in that town, had severe water damage to their properties. But the most unnerving incident was that involving one of her her sisters and brother-in-law who were missing until this morning. They had been flooded out of their house and made a harrowing escape from the rising waters, with the sister's godson actually carrying her on his back. Another sibling was stuck for 24 hours in a public transit jeep. A sister-in-law and her son were trapped in the attic of their home also for that same length of time.

So whatever discomfort and inconvenience that I personally encountered in the storm would not have happened if I had exercised common sense and had just stayed home. In that regard whatever troubles I experienced I brought on myself. Such was not the case for Lydia's family members and the hundreds of thousands of other victims who suffered in varying degrees partly as the result of the ravages of nature, plus the Philippine government's failure to properly plan ahead for such a catastrophe (think Katrina in the U.S.), and from the tragic misfortune of being in the wrong place at the wrong time.

Saturday, September 19, 2009

Please Mr. Postman Part 2

The problem regarding delayed mail especially from the U.S. that I discussed in my post "Please Mr. Postman" has become worse. A mail retrieval claim notice that according to the date stamp was over a month old was just delivered to me a few days ago.

So when I went to the branch to pick up the item (which by the way really should have been delivered instead of my having to shlep there to retrieve it and having to pay a P35 fee in the process), I decided that enough is enough and decided to complain directly to the branch postmaster. So after picking up the item I proceeded to his office. He was courteous, took down the information, and promised to look in to the matter.

My taking this step may not seem like a big deal, but it was risky because it's not unusual for administrators and bureaucrats here to become vindictive and spiteful when confronted with service or efficiency complaints, or they may request a bribe to resolve the issue. Such was not the case in this instance. The Postmaster's assistant even gave me his email address and phone number for future inquiries.

Moreover, I'm not the confrontational type. On the other hand, I felt that there was no choice in the matter and that by protesting politely and calmly, I didn't have much to lose and that there's a chance that the problem would be corrected. Yet there was also the possibility of aggravating the situation and facing even longer delivery delays due to my making waves.

So now the ball is in Philpost's court. In this culture of public service indifference, it will be interesting to see how the matter plays out.

Thursday, August 27, 2009

Having the Time of My Life

Today marks the 4th year anniversary of my arrival in the Philippines as an expat retiree. Aside from dealing with the petty annoyances that everybody faces on a day to day basis, this period has been personally less stressful than any other that I can recall.

As a result I've had more opportunity for creativity in terms of writing and overall self-expression than ever before. I can think more clearly because I no longer have to concern myself with making a living as I did in California by working at a job that I hated but had to put up with in order to survive. Now that my wife Lydia and I have retired and are collecting social security, that frustration is no longer a problem, for which I am thankful every day.

To be sure, our income has been sharply reduced from the days when I had a salary. However, the cost of living in the Philippines is much less than in America, and by living within our means, our life style is modest but comfortable. And speaking of comfort, Lydia , bless her heart, has gone out of her way to see to my peace of mind to the point of spoiling me rotten. She has decorated our condo very artistically without busting our budget. There' s no way that we could live like this in the States without going into serious debt. And don't even get me started on the wonderful meals that she prepares.

I think that another factor that has made a difference is that I had no great disillusionment about life here vs. how I imagined it would be before I left the U.S. That minimized the culture shock in adjusting to the chaos of Philippine society. The trick is to roll with it while still hanging on to one's principles and ideals. Yet the challenge in attempting to achieve this balance has not diminished my enjoyment of life here.

In short we have become so embedded in our way of living in the Philippines that repatriating would be extremely difficult and prohibitively expensive. I can only hope that as time passes we will continue to be content with our decision to retire here as we are today.

Wednesday, August 5, 2009

Yet Another Perspective on Cory

So much has been written about the late former President Corazon "Cory" Aquino (b. 1933), who died on Saturday and was buried today, that it's hard to add anything original. But to foreigners who may not be that familiar with this remarkable woman, I will just say the following.

Her well known display of of honesty and humility was not a show. Cory was one of the relatively few leaders in the Philippines who did not abuse her power or use her office to enrich herself. I'm familiar with the neighborhood where she lived after retiring from office. And while it's pleasant enough, it's not where you would expect a former president and descendant from a wealthy family to spend her final years.

Cory was loved by the people during and after her term (1986—1992)as President. Ironically, it may have been a particular weakness in her style of administration that bonded her to the populace: her reliance on prayer instead of objectivity and firmness in making policy decisions. Such dependency on supernatural direction is major part of the Philippine national character. Yet how much more effective a president Cory would have been if she had relied on the same grit that saw her through the years when her husband, Benigno "Ninoy" Aquino, was imprisoned under martial law and then assassinated.

Importantly, Cory will achieve immortality in the best sense of the word: By being well-remembered by those she left behind. Not just the Philippines, but the entire world is a better place for her legacy that grew from the "people power" movement and for her example of overcoming the difficult odds against making the transformation from housewife to President—during extremely trying times for the Philippines at that. It will likely be a long time before this country sees another leader of such combined inner strength and moral calibre.

Sunday, August 2, 2009

Road (Out)rage

A few days ago, my wife Lydia and I returned from a visit to her home town, Gumaca, in Quezon Province. This was my first such trip outside of Metro-Manila in 3 years (that journey was also to Gumaca), and it was good to take a break from my daily routine.

While we there,I had intended to do some walking in the countryside outside of town and take in the tropical scenery. But due to time constraints resulting from unexpected family matters that we encountered upon our arrival, I was not able to do this. So the only rural greenery that I saw was along the road from the bus window en route to and from Gumaca. Even that, however, was refreshing. I did make some time to to stroll along the promenade in town overlooking Lamon Bay. This scenic stretch of water can also be viewed from the national road, Maharlika Highway, for several kilometers.

We were well taken care of during our visit. Lydia's step-niece prepared some great meals. Food ingredients in the province such as fish and produce are very fresh. We also spent one night at the Perennial Hotel in Gumaca. This was my first time in such lodgings outside of Metro-Manila. The place is a fairly new establishment. It was clean but very bare bones, and the rooms are quite small. However, each room has its own bath, but there is no hot running water.

Lydia left here for Gumaca on July 27, the day before I did as there were some matters that I wanted to attend to before going. Unfortunately, it turns out that her journey--and that of countless other travelers and commuters throughout the country--was disrupted by a nationwide celebration by the Iglesia ni Cristo (Church of Christ) which was marking the 95th anniversary of its establishment in the Philippines. Members of this church converged on various convention centers and sports stadiums. However, their most outrageous act was holding roadside festivities along the national highway, bringing traffic to almost a standstill by parking the celebrant-carrying buses directly on one lane of the two-lane artery, leaving only the other lane open for for traffic in both directions to pass.

As it was, it took Lydia eight hours to reach Gumaca, a bus ride that was almost twice as long as it should have been. But she got off lucky. Her sister and brother-in-law who were also visiting there were in transit for 14 hours.

Frankly, I don't understand how such a recognized and prosperous organization as the INC could in good conscience display such inconsiderate behavior. For besides inconveniencing countless commuters and travelers on a weekday no less (Does Iglesia ni Cristo consider the Golden Rule non-binding on itself?), consider how many hungry people in the Philippines could have been fed with the funds that went into sponsoring this over the top event. But then if you saw magnificent structure of the INC churches in contrast to their surroundings of poverty, such narcissistic behavior would come as no surprise.

So if you intend to travel within the Philippines, keep up with the news. Besides unexpected bad weather and road conditions, major rallies and celebrations are another variable that can frustrate your plans. And in a country where large gatherings and fiestas are a way of life, this scenario may well happen more often than not.

Saturday, July 11, 2009

Please, Mr. Postman

Based on personal experience, I would have to say that weakest communications link in this country is the postal system, also known as Philpost. Over the past couple months, mail sent to me from the U.S. has arrived either late or not at all. Even priority mail items that finally did reach me were not delivered--based on the Quezon City Post Office date stamp-- for three weeks or more after arriving there.

In an attempt to resolve this issue, I called that office. According to a delivery supervisor with whom I spoke, the problem is a shortage of and turnover of mail carriers in my locale which is a densely populated mixed business and multi-unit condominium area but that they're doing the best they can with their available resources to keep up with delivery demands.

Incidentally, finding the phone number for Philpost was a task in itself because that operation is not a government bureau as such but rather a government owned corporation and so is not listed under Philippine government offices. Instead, it's listed alphabetically under Philippine Postal Corporation in the Metro-Manila DPC "Government and Business Phone Directory". Significantly, there's no customer service number listed under that heading in the phone book or on the Philpost website.

So if you are outside the Philippines and are mailing an important letter, consider sending it via registered mail or through private carriers such as LBC or Fed-Ex. If you can get away without sending the primary document itself, there are of course other recourses for correspondence from, to, and within the Philippines such as telephone, fax, email, and text messaging. For residents of Metro-Manila, to improve the chances of receiving your mail consider renting a post office box. Sending money to the Philippines can be done through such services as Philippine National Bank, Western Union, and various Internet services.

Another problem with the postal service here is internal pilferage which is why much of the mail (possibly including my lost items?) goes missing. Also there are no public mailboxes. The reason for this is that they would be highly vulnerable to theft due to the high crime rate here. So mailing a letter requires a trip to the post office or to malls where there are private companies that accept mail and perform other services for Philpost such as selling stamps.

In short, although it's a separate entity from the government, the postal system's deficiencies reflect the culture of inefficiency of its "parent company" and of the Philippine society as a whole. Unless the national character through some miracle drastically transforms itself, it would probably be futile to expect Philpost to function any better than it does now.

Saturday, June 13, 2009

The Illusion of Philippine Independence

Yesterday was Philippine Independence Day. It was 111 years ago on June 12 that this country won its freedom from Spain. Shortly thereafter, the Philippines was colonized by the U.S. and did not become a sovereign nation until 1946.

It seems to me that this year's celebration was more subdued than in previous years. Perhaps this is due to the anger of the people over an ongoing attempt by the Philippine House of Representatives to ram through a change in the Constitution that could change the present presidential form of government to a parliamentary system. This would allow the current and very unpopular lame duck President of the Philippines--who cannot run again for this office again due to the term limit rule of the current Constitution--a shot at running for a seat in the proposed parliament and sooner than later becoming Prime Minister. This is because she must find a way to stay in office to retain the immunity that protects her from civil and criminal charges that await her once she is no longer in power. The corruption in which the President and her husband appear to be involved is also rampant throughout the Philippines, and the resulting diversion of billions of pesos in public funds to pockets of crooked politicians and dishonest government employees keep the people from social and economic advancement.

Along with this corruption is the phenomenon of patronage, which extends to personal and family relations, creating a culture of dependency. An example of this mind set is reliance on friends and relatives, especially those in key positions for jobs, loans, and other forms of assistance in exchange for personal loyalty and votes .

Examples of dependency are over reliance by children--even after reaching adulthood--on their parents for protection, shelter, and emotional sustenance; reliance by families for financial support from family members who are OFW's (overseas Filipino workers); reliance on live-in domestic help (a must-have for the middle and upper classes) to do household and child care chores that their employers are usually capable of doing themselves but which are considered beneath their dignity; reliance on the Church for family planning decisions and on patron saints for protection no matter what kind of unnecessary risks believers take, such as reckless driving.

Not surprisingly this national character trait of dependency has led to a personal and social lack of discipline and restraint. No less than the Chief Justice of the Supreme Court, of the Philippines, Reynato Puno, weighed in on this issue, decrying the sad state of ethical, political and economic state of affairs here. He declared that under these circumstances the country "has no reason to celebrate our freedom".

The sad thing is that the Philippines has so much potential in both natural and human resources that will never be realized unless through some "miracle", the country can pull itself together and its citizens can begin to act responsibly. Until then, the phrase "Philippine independence" will remain a contradiction in terms.

Monday, May 11, 2009

Minority Report

Although predominantly Roman Catholic, the Philippines is home to followers of many other religious beliefs (and non-belief). Among the the assorted groups (just to name a few) are Animists, Muslims, Buddhists, Mormons, and various Protestant denominations.

One of the smallest minorities in this country is the Jewish Association of the Philippines of which I am a member. Because our numbers here are so few (maybe a few hundred maximum, most of whom are concentrated in the Metro-Manila area) I'm interested in seeing our community grow. So I have proposed an outreach program to the Association to attract Jews in the Philippines who may not be aware that there is an such an organization with whom they an affiliate. Hence, the search is on for such prospective members.

One of the more challenging aspects of this recruitment program is trying to balance Jewish visibility with the need for security and protection. In this country, about 10% of the people are Muslims, and there is an element of that population who do not wish us well. And the attack on the Jewish community in Mumbai last year is always in the back our minds. But isn't such antipathy the case in almost every country where Jews have settled? Moreover, Jews have had a presence in the Philippines for centuries. For an excellent chronicle of this history, click here and see the article "Jews In The Philippines".

Personally, as a Jew and an atheist, I feel comfortable living in the Philippines, almost to the point of complacency. As we are about to see this is potentially harmful. It's true that in the almost four years that I've lived here, neither my ethnicity nor my personal views have ever been a serious issue. And there are other community members who have lived here a lot longer than I have who likewise have not felt threatened for being Jewish. The real hazard to our personal safety is the result of the high crime rate in this country, which is something that almost everybody living in the Philippines needs to be alert to and concerned about, regardless of background. So there is really no room or excuse for the complancency in which occasionally I indulge.

Many of the couples and families who are members of the Association are blended, typically Jewish foreigners and local Filipinos. Some of the latter have opted to convert to Judaism , but those who have not are no less welcome for it. My personal view is that both Jewish and Philippine cultures are enriched by this joining of ethnicities.

For more information about the community, please visit the website The Jewish Association of the Philippines.